Sarajevo is a living testament to its complex history, which I never knew so much happened here in Sarajevo - the meeting of the Ottoman and Austro-Hungarian regime, trigger of World War I, Bosnia war etc, and it had been a very enlightening visit.
A city of contrasts where East and West converge, history intertwines with modernity, and cultures harmonise in a rich tapestry. Nestled in a valley surrounded by mountains, Sarajevo has earned its nickname as the "Jerusalem of Europe" due to its diverse religious and cultural influences.
The city's historic heart is the Baščašjia (Turkish word which means main market place), an Ottoman-era bazaar filled with cobbled streets, bustling markets and traditional craftsmen's shops.
Having arrived very early in the morning from Mostar and checked into Infinity Boutique Hostel, Deniz booked me in for one of those free walking tour which was supposed to start at 10am.
The tour guide Enes arrived about 10 mins late, but I also subsequently found out that I was the only 1 for the tour, as another person from another hostel had failed to show up.
Enes gave me a very quick run down of the city, showing me key sights. He spoke extremely fast and I had a hard time processing all the information that was shared. The tour lasted about 1.5hr and because I took pity that I was the only one that showed up which as a result would impact the tips he received, I gave him €10, when in normal circumstances I would probably had given just €5.
Sacred Heart Cathedral
The Church was our meeting spot for the tour, which was just located next to the hostel. Look for the green umbrella at 10am each day for the free walking tour. Carols are also sung on Christmas eve, which I was lucky to experience.
Kažandziluk Street
Copper Smith Street within Bascarija and dates back to Ottoman times. The sound of copper being knocked and shaped sounded throughout the street as I walked through admiring the work of art lining the street shops.
Eternal Flame
Been burning since 6 April 1945. Monument to victims of WWII. Runs on gas. It only stopped burning in 1992 - 1995 during the Bosnian war, as there was no fuel.
Colours used on the words were the colours of the flag of the old Yugoslavia.
Market Hall
The Markethalle was built in 1895 on the site of the town's fairground. The building was the first in Sarajevo to have a roof constructed of steel girders.
Gazi Huzrev Bey Mosque
Most monumental mosque of the Ottoman period, built in 1530 and located within Bascarsija.
The public toilet (was recommended by the guide to take a picture) was built as a result of the construction of the mosque, so that the workers who did the construction of this mosque would have a proper place to do their business, rather than around the holy grounds.
The mausoleum of Gazi Huzrev Beg, the man who commissioned the construction of the mosque. The smaller mausoleum is of his best Friend Murat Beg Tardic.
The clock time differs from the time the pic was taken. When the clock strikes 12, that's when the sun sets. It's especially useful for Muslims during Ramadan to know when their fasting for the day ends.
According to the tour guide earlier, someone will climb up every 7 days to adjust the clock so that it will show the lunar time properly.
I've got slightly more than 2 hours left to catch sunset!
Other Random Sightings around Old Town
Came across these old gentlemen playing chess on the street!
Bazaar
Home to a lot of shops selling imitation branded goods. I ended up getting a pair of cool sunglasses here!
You'll also see these ruins next to the Bazaar called Tasilihan - a han is an inn or hostel for merchants. In 1878, there were fifty caravanserais and hans in Sarajevo, of which the most important were Kolobara, the Tasilihan and Morica Han.
Morica Han is still quite well preserved and is now a restaurant with shops on the ground floor.
This marking on the ground is known as Rose of Sarajevo. There are about 100 such roses around the city, demarking the spot where 3 – 20 people were killed by one shell during the ’92 – ’95 attack on Sarajevo.
Concert Hall
Outside of the Old Town
Yellow Bastion
This was one of 5 entry points into the city in the past. The entire fortified walls were built by some of the same men which built Dubrovnik, as it was known for its fortress walls back then.
It was a tiring climb up to the Yellow Bastian, passing through these cute little houses, before reaching a HUGE cemetery! Look at the sheer area this cemetery covers!
The Bastion being perched high in the city offered great views.
City Hall
This building is the biggest and most representative building in Sarajevo from the period of Austro-Hungarian rule, and was purposefully built to serve as the seat of city administration. This was where the Inat Kuca building (see below) was originally located and then had to be moved brick by brick to give way to the City Hall.
The Latin Bridge
The Latin Bridge was where Franz Ferdinand (Arch Duke of Austrian-Hungarian) was murdered on June 28, 1914, which triggered the start of WWI.
Gavrilo Princip was having a meal at the grocery store at corner of street, and the car drove into the street, and he shot 2 bullets, 1st one was shot at Franz Ferdinand and 2nd one to his wife. He received 20 years of prison as he was just below 20 years old to get the death sentence.
Austrian Hungarian monarchy blames Serbia for the dreadful act. With help of Germany, Austro Hungarian monarchy in July 23 1914 issued the Government of Serbia with an ultimatum. But as Serbia did not accept all terms, the Austro Hungarian govt cut off diplomatic ties and declared war on Serbia 5 days later by sending troops to enter the country.
Germany warned Russia that it will attack if it helps Serbia. But Russia couldn't accept ultimatum and the humiliation, so they went to help their Slavic allies. As a result, Germany declared war on Russia and attacked France through Belgium.
Belgium with the support of Great Britain also declared war on Germany, and so the war begun.
Jewish cemetery
2nd largest Jewish cemetery in Europe, first being in Prague.
But the bigger reason I was keen to visit this was because this cemetery was on the front line during the war, and was used as an Artillery position by the Bosnian Serbs. You can still see signs of a lot of bullet holes here in this cemetry.
I also spotted a number of buildings outside of the old town with numerous bullet holes still on the facade. There were also a number of buildings that were still fairly run down which is in need of a rebuild!
Sarajevo Olympic Hall
There was a Christmas market going on while I was there, and so I walked through the grounds
Getting to Trebevic requires taking a cable car ride - the trip to Trebevic was my highlight of my trip to Sarajevo.
There was no snow in the city of Sarajevo, but at the top was a total opposite with snow covered grounds in a number of spots, some so deep that I was covered calf high in snow!
As a winter Olympics city, there were still remnants of the 1984 Winter Olympics old bob sled covered in graffiti art.
At the bottom of Trebevic, I came across this War Museum that was free to enter and had a lot of videos and images of how people lived during the Bosnia war.
Very heart breaking and can't imagine that this was just about 15 years ago, which lasted for a period of about 3 years!
Restaurant recommendations
Pod Lipom
This place was recommended by the tour guide. He also specifically told me what to order when I am there!
Under the Linden Tree (Pod Lipom), according to the sign on the door, has been around since 1959.
I gave the order to the staff and when I said Apple Rakija at the end, he gave me a big smile and said "I like your choices". I guess he wasn't expecting a foreigner to be ordering like a local, especially the Rakija.
Bey Soup
Soup with Chicken, Okra and Vegetables. This was really chicken soup for the soul, warms me up really nicely especially in this cold weather. It was so good that I went back on a separate day just to have the soup.
Sarajevski Sahan
A selection of Bosnian specialty dishes. From what I gathered, they were different vegetables stuffed with minced meat and cooked in a tomato based sauce.
As for the Rakija, the apple flavour is very faint and comes through subtely.
Petica Feratovic
The tour guide also recommended that I go to Petica Feratovic to eat Cevapcici - grilled minced meat fingers in a pita bread. A must eat when in Sarajevo!
Inat Kuća
Literally translated as "Spite House".
After the Austrian-Hungarian monarchy occupied Bosnia-Herzegovina, they have begun to build various buildings eg. The Post Office, Musuem, Faculty of Law.
When they tried to build the City Hall, they encountered Bosnian stubborness. They wanted to build it at the right side of river Miljacka, an enormous building never seen before to show the power of the ruling monarchy.
But the exact location is in the property of an old man called Benderija, resident citizen of Sarajevo who did not want to allow them to demolish his house and take his land away from him without reason.
After long negotiations, the stubborn man finally said that he will give up his property only if they give him a bag of golden coins and move his house brick by brick to the other side of the river.
They had no choice but do what he had requested for in 1895. For that reason it's called Inat Kuća.
It was turned into a restaurant in 1997. Food wasn't too bad (Bey Soup at Pod Lipom was way better), but it was certainly a little bit more touristy, but was one of the ways I could explore the house which I recommend.
Baklava
I was told by the tour guide this shop is the oldest in town and serves a really good Baklava.
Hostel recommendation
Infinity Boutique Hostel
Great location, right in the centre of the city
Cosy sized hostel with 6 single beds in the dorm and spaciously placed.
Good heating throughout the entire hostel
Amazingly huge and clean toilets
Even more surprising was that Deniz, the owner of the hostel has the exact same birth date as me, including the year!
Deniz was also very hospitable, allowing me to check in early and making sure guests are well taken care of.
My only gripe was the 3 floors of stairs to climb to get to the property, especially with luggage!
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