Anecdotes of a Globetrotter: Day 222

World´s Greatest Show!

When I left Rio a few months ago, I had the feeling I would once again return. Just because it is such a beautiful city, and there were still a few sights I have yet to see (eg. Pao de Azucar and Niteroi, which even after my 2nd trip I still have not visited! Perhaps there needs to be this feel of unfinished business in a city if I want to come back again!).

At that point, I never imagined it would be this fast; I only decided in the last couple of months to extend my trip, just to attend Carnaval, and here I am!

This time round, the feeling of Rio feels different from before. It is still a beautiful place to be in, and with better weather too (i.e. much warmer and no rain). However, the crowds on the street is incredible! It seemed like the whole world is here (at an estimate of about 800,000 tourists, in addition to the locals, packed in the main streets of Rio) just to attend Carnaval too, which is said to be the World´s Greatest Show!

Before arriving in Rio for Carnaval, my perception of Carnaval was that it was filled with sexy ladies dressed in lavishly beautiful yet minimalist outfits that enhanced their figures, while they danced to the beat of samba on extravagantly decorated floats, parading through the streets with crowds cheering on the side in bright day light.

What I had perceived was only a fraction accurate, as Carnaval in Rio was more than that. It comprises of 2 main elements : The Parade and the Blocos.

The famous Parade usually encompass various schools competing against each other for the acclaimed number one position, and for this year, 13 schools parade through the Sambodromo over 2 days (7 schools on Sunday and 6 on Monday), with the top 6 parading again on the following Saturday.

The parade starts at 9pm, with each school´s performance lasting for just slightly less than 1.5hr (by the time the show ends on each day it is about 5am or later!). Each school would usually have decorated 8 or more floats. Alongside are over 2,000 performers, part of which are the sexy ladies dressed in minimalist feathered outfits, while the rest are seperated into blocks of 100, with each block dressed in different outfits as per the theme selected by the school.

One can only imagine the amount of detail and effort that goes in to create these floats and costumes worn by the performers. In fact, I was told that the participants actually pay for their outfit, each costing about BRL700 - 900 (approx S$450 - 700), just so that they can have the chance of their lifetime to parade in Sambodromo.

Bloco band

The second element to Carnaval is the Blocos, which is actually a much bigger element. This year, it is said that there are 145 blocos, with a total of 425 street parties during the entire Carnaval period. That means that at almost every turn into a district of Rio at almost any hour of the day, there would definitely be one street party with huge crowds.

Moving vehicle at bloco

Blocos are organised groups that hold their own street festival, without the elegance and extravagance. The music and dancing are still key elements to the blocos. Often it involves one huge vehicle equipped with loud speakers and carrying some singers accompanied by a walking musical band, going around a block with the public dancing behind or in front of the vehicle.

Another moving bloco

Member of a bloco band

Crowds at a bloco

Any visitor or local wanting to be part of the Carnaval action can easily do so just by showing up at any of the blocos, dressed in fancy costumes (or at least some simple fantasy dress up of some kind), and follow the blocos round the block while dancing to the music. These blocos can start as early as 9am, and often one will see many of the participants drinking beers while enjoying the bloco parade.

I joined in too with the dress up, with a borrowed mask and a tierra band from Sandra, just to fit in with the crowd. However I could not bring myself to the challenge of attending blocos after blocos throughout the whole day for a consecutive of 4 days, something which some tourists come to Rio just to do.

One of the band players

On most days I usually only attend one (or maximum two), just to feel the atmosphere. For a first timer, I find it difficult to comprehend how people can start drinking at 9am in the morning and the amount of beers they consume is unbelievable!

On the contrary, I was totally sober and could even count the number of drinks I had the whole time in Rio (1 can of beer, 1 can of smirnoff ice, 2 caipirinha and a glass of rum on the rocks).

Worrying about the thrown beer cans on the road is the least of the problem, as there are guys picking them up very soon after they are discarded, to earn extra pocket money. Unfortunately the rest of the dirt and litter thrown on the ground stays on the road, until a professional clean up team is able to come in to clean it up.

I did however find it more interesting watching the people dress up in amazing costumes and how they dance to the music and beats of the drums, and often found myself dancing along with the beats, as well as having a good laugh at some of the behaviour of the people when they are drunk.

Be careful however when someone extends their hand, as though they were extending it for a handshake, as you may just find a tongue in your mouth! Probably every guy´s dream to be at Carnaval in Rio, as you can walk up to almost any girl on the streets and try to kiss them!

I managed to escape all such attempts - why should I kiss a stranger, who may not even be that good looking and drunk!