Anecdotes of a Globetrotter: Day 71

One of the key destinations in Guatemala is Lake Atitlan, a huge lake with a surface area of 130.1 square kilometres. It has a scenic backdrop of a couple of majestic volcanoes (Volcan Toliman & Volcan Atitlan).

I made the town of Panajachel my base at Lake Atitlan, primarily for its ease of access, and took day trips to visit the numerous villages around the lake.

Panajachel is known as the tourist town, and the main port of call for most visitors before getting on the boat to the villages. It's also the largest town on the lake and constantly bustling with activity, and has one of the best views of the volcanoes.

There are also more international meal options available, and after having travelled around for more than 2 months, I was craving something Asian.

I managed to get my Asian fix at a Japanese Restaurant Hana, located on Calle 14 de Febrero, in one of the oldest building in Panajachel, and with a beautiful courtyard and garden setting.

I ordered a bowl of Tendon, and was presented with a huge serving! Not as refined as what we can find in Japan or Singapore, but it served its purpose.

In Panajachel, I also had a 1.5hr really bliss massage with hot stones at Zoe Spa, located in the same building as Restaurant Hana.

Super relaxing, but the time went by too fast! It was also one of the most reasonably priced massage I had seen around the lake at GTQ 180 (SGD 36).

Would had gone for another session, unfortunately was leaving the next day.

Yup, it was that good! Reservations recommended.

The most common way of moving around the different towns on the lake is by boat, with stops at San Juan or San Pedro as the most popular.

Some agencies also sell tickets for a tour around 4 villages (San Marcos, San Juan, San Pedro, Santiago), and had received quotes from GTQ 110 to as high as GTQ 200, which is a rip off, as this only covers transport and does not include a guide.

You can easily move across villages on own and at a cheaper price by hopping on any of the boats that regularly service the routes from as early as 6am in the morning until 5pm in the evening.

There is also a land route via windy mountainous roads and would take more time.

Each of the village has a different flair, with many of these villages having their own traditional outfit, worn by most women in that village.

ROUTE 1 : BY BOAT

Panajachel – San Marcos : GTQ 25
San Marcos – San Juan : GTQ 15
San Juan – San Pedro : By foot 30 minutes (can also be done by boat, if you prefer. Cost unknown).
San Juan – Santiago Atitlan : GTQ 30 (I got scammed here. The guy who sold me the ticket told me it includes the ticket to Panajachel, but when I got to Santiago, I was told I had to buy another ticket to Panajachel.)

San Marcos

Known as the "Ohhmm" town or Hippie Town. Signs of meditation, yoga, massage courses are seen everywhere in the village. It's very small, with all activities located on the single street leading from the jetty into inland.

San Juan

Art town, with numerous galleries and shops selling textiles and weaving classes.

San Pedro

Known as the Backpackers town, and is the 2nd largest town around the lake after Panajachel. More affordable accommodation and food is said to be found here, with a bustling food market located further inland.

Santiago Atitlan

The Market town. The streets from the jetty towards its city centre were lined with shops selling clothing, bags, textiles, sombreros, jewellery etc. Great for souvenir shopping.

Other Views from Boat Ride

ROUTE 2 : BY LAND

Panajachel – Santa Catarina : GTQ3 (Pick up truck)
Santa Catarina – San Antonio : GTQ3 (Pick up truck)
Aguas Escondido – San Lucas Toliman : GTQ 4 (Mini shuttle van)
San Lucas Toliman – Panajachel : GTQ 10 (Chicken Bus)

I particularly enjoyed this route as the inland roads are very scenic, particularly the chicken bus ride from San Lucas Toliman to Panajachel, with mesmerising views of cornfields and the countryside along the way.

I was the only non-local on the bus, and received big smiles from most folks who boarded the bus.

The section between San Antonio and San Lucas Toliman does not have a direct shuttle and I ended up having to walk most of the way from San Antonio to Aguas Escondido – a long 4.5km walk, with a tough walk uphill over unpaved roads on some sections, but one of the most beautiful views I had around Lake Atitlan. I was lucky I got a ride halfway through, so I didn't have to walk the last 2km.

On this route, it is more prominent to see the customary dressing of the women in the villages, with each village having their own signature style of clothing.

I also noticed most of the time the women seem to be doing most of the work, including hard labour like moving wood, with little encounter of men doing the same.

Santa Carolina