Day 259 – 260 : Rabat

Rabat is a 2hr train ride from Casablanca and is the capital of Morocco. 

The train ride to Rabat was very pleasant in a modern looking train, and upon arriving into Rabat, was greeted by clean and modern looking town. 

As usual, accommodation was challenging.  Prices were much steeper here as compared to the other cities, and most of the more affordable ones were already taken.  I visited a few hotels, before finally settling into a room at Hotel Central, located a short distance from the train station.

The hotel is probably about 30+ year old, and in its hay day would probably be luxurious.  But without much upkeep, the room has become run down, though still decent.  It was extremely simple with no toilet (located outside the room), while shower facilities are held under lock and key by the reception, and available for usage at a fee. 

At the same hotel, I met a fellow traveller Clement from Germany, who had also just checked in.  As travellers, we started chatting, and decided to do some sightseeing together, covering Chellah and the Royal Palace in the same day.

Chellah

Chellah is an old city founded by Carthaginians, conquered by Romans and later passed under Arab rule, just to be abandoned and settled again by unbelievable numbers of birds, especially storks.

There are also historical layers visible, with outstanding Roman and Moroccan parts, definitely worth visiting and exploring its huge compound.

Royal Palace

The Royal Palace, official residence of King Hassan II of Morocco, is a sumptuous building constructed upon the ruins of an 18th century palace.

It was some distance to walk from the Chellah to Royal Palace, but we did anyway, though we found ourselves occasionally lost on the streets. 

The surrounding grounds around the Royal Palace were lined with interesting pruned orange trees.  All of the trees had been pruned such that they had a box like top structure, and with the numerous orange trees planted one after another, it gave a feel of extreme order lining the 2 sides of the road.

The grounds were extremely deserted and besides a couple of other odd tourists in the vicinity, there were hardly anyone in the grounds.  Very surprising!

 

To ensure that I managed to cover all the sights before leaving for Marrakesh, I woke up early next morning to visit the Hassan Tower & Royal Mausoleum, Kasbah of the Oudayas and of course some shopping at the Medina. 

Hassan Tower

Hassan Tower or Tour Hassan is the minaret of an incomplete mosque in Rabat.  Begun in 1195, the tower was intended to be the largest minaret in the world along with the mosque, also intended to be the world's largest. 

In 1199, Sultan Yacoub al-Mansour died and construction on the mosque stopped. The tower only reached 44 m (140 ft), about half of its intended 86 m (260 ft) height. The rest of the mosque was also left incomplete, with only the beginnings of several walls and 200 columns being constructed. The tower, made of red sandstone, along with the remains of the mosque and the modern Mausoleum of Mohammed V, forms an important historical and tourist complex in Rabat.

Instead of stairs, the tower is ascended by ramps. The minaret's ramps would have allowed the muezzin to ride a horse to the top of the tower to issue the call to prayer.

Royal Mausoleum

Located just next to Hassan Tower, Hassan II wished to build a mausoleum that would be a worthy monument to the life of his father Mohammed V, who is considered to be the spiritual father of Moroccans and the liberator of the kingdom.

He chose a site with double historical importance:

• The site of the former Hassan mosque.
• The place where Mohammed V led the first Friday prayers after the Declaration of Independence on 18th November 1955.

It is a masterpiece of Spanish-Moorish architecture and of traditional Moroccan art.  It was built between 1962 and 1970, in an entirely artisan manner.  600 workers and artisans took part. 

The mausoleum contains the corpses of three members of the royal family:

• His Majesty Mohammed V, who died on 26th February 1961.
• His Majesty Hassan II, who died on 23rd July 1999.
• Prince Muley Abdallah, the second son of Mohammed V, who died on 20th December 1983.
  

Eight readers take it in 2-hour turns to read the Koran throughout the day.

 

Kasbah of the Oudayas

Still the old heart of Rabat, this ancient Kasbah is named after the tribe who were sent here by Sultan Moulay Ishmail to defend the city against Andalusian attacks.

The original fortress was constructed during the Almohad dynasty in the 12th Century.  It is a city within a city, a community that is surrounded by one of the largest cities in Morocco, yet has all it needs within its own walls.  It is home to approximately 2,000 of Rabat’s citizens, and contains its own mosque, communal bread oven, fountain, and hammam.

Characterised by streets with walls partially painted in a beautiful blue, it definitely deserves a visit and indeed a pleasant walk in the quaint fortress of the Oudayas.

The Kasbah also overlooks the Atlantic Ocean offering fantastic views.

 

Old Medina

Least to forget mentioning is the Old Medina.  There is always something interesting to see or do in any medinas in Morocco and the Rabat Medina was my source for meals during my stay.  Some good shopping to be had too - I got tempted with some leather flats that I ended up buying 2 pairs! 

Thank god they were light and easy to pack, as at the time of writing, I probably have about a total of 8 pairs of footwear on me – 1 walking shoes, 4 pairs of Havaianas from Brazil, 1 pair of heels from Agadir, 1 pair of boat shoes from Panama, and now 2 pairs of leather flats! 

Don’t ask how I manage to carry all, as my luggage is just about exploding from its seams!!!